2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir – Bendigo, Central Otago, NZ – 95 Points Wine Pilot | 95 Candice Chow

🏆 SIX OUTSTANDING CRITIC RATINGS – ONLY 1,600 BOTTLES PRODUCED! ONE OF CENTRAL OTAGO'S MOST EXCITING BOUTIQUE PINOT NOIRS!

95 Points – Wine Pilot | 95 Points – Candice Chow | 94 Points – The Wine Front | 94 Points – The Wine Advocate | 94 Points – Decanter | 94 Points – Cameron Douglas MS

2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir – Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand

RRP $65

Every now and then, you discover a wine that makes you wonder how such an extraordinary producer has managed to remain relatively unknown. The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir is exactly one of those wines.

From a tiny, family-owned estate on the rugged slopes of Bendigo in Central Otago comes a Pinot Noir of remarkable quality, individuality and sophistication.

And the critical recognition is extraordinary.

Six outstanding ratings, all between 94 and 95 points, from some of the most respected wine critics in Australia, New Zealand and internationally.

But perhaps the most astonishing detail is the production.

Just 1,600 bottles.

Not 1,600 cases.

Not 1,600 dozen.

Only 1,600 individual bottles – approximately 133 dozen for the entire vintage.

That is an incredibly small production for a wine attracting this level of international attention.

The fruit comes from a remarkable vineyard nestled into the foothills of Central Otago's Dunstan Range, where schist-rich soils, dramatic landscapes and extreme growing conditions create the foundations for some of New Zealand's finest Pinot Noir.

The wine is produced by Donald van der Westhuizen, a fascinating winemaker whose background in ecology has profoundly influenced his approach to vineyards, winemaking and the natural environment.

Four different Pinot Noir clones, multiple whole-bunch fermentation treatments, wild yeast and 12 months in seasoned French oak combine to create a wine of exceptional complexity.

And at just $65 a bottle, this is a remarkable opportunity to discover a tiny-production Central Otago Pinot Noir with genuinely outstanding international recognition.

Moko Hills – A Remarkable Boutique Estate in Central Otago

Moko Hills is a family-owned wine estate situated in the Bendigo subregion of Central Otago, New Zealand.

The property encompasses approximately 40 hectares of extraordinary landscape in the foothills of the Dunstan Range.

This is not a conventional vineyard setting.

The surrounding countryside is rugged, dramatic and remarkably beautiful, with rocky hillsides, native vegetation and expansive views across one of New Zealand's most fascinating wine regions.

The estate's philosophy extends well beyond simply growing grapes and making wine.

There is a deep commitment to understanding, respecting and protecting the natural environment.

The wines are intended to express not only the characteristics of the vineyard but also the broader landscape from which they emerge.

Moko Hills produces small quantities of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with an emphasis on individual vineyard expression and minimal unnecessary intervention.

The scale of production is tiny.

And that is part of what makes the estate so fascinating.

Rather than chasing volume, the focus is on creating wines that genuinely communicate the personality of this extraordinary place.

Moko Hills is exactly the kind of producer we love discovering at Liquid Vibe – small, independent, deeply connected to its vineyards and producing wines of remarkable individuality.

Donald van der Westhuizen – A Winemaker with an Extraordinary Background

The winemaker behind Moko Hills is Donald van der Westhuizen.

And his journey into wine is particularly fascinating.

Before becoming a winemaker, Donald completed a master's degree in Ecosystem Ecology and worked as a research ecologist throughout New Zealand and the South Pacific.

His understanding of the natural world eventually led him towards viticulture and winemaking.

He returned to the University of Auckland to study wine science before gaining experience through vintages in Central Otago, Oregon and Burgundy.

This combination of ecological knowledge and international winemaking experience provides a distinctive foundation for his work.

Donald approaches wine through a deep understanding of the relationship between plants, soils, climate and the surrounding environment.

For him, the vineyard is not simply an agricultural production site.

It is part of a complex living landscape.

This philosophy is reflected in the wines.

The emphasis is on preserving the individuality of the fruit, allowing natural fermentation to play an important role and avoiding excessive extraction or manipulation.

Donald is also closely involved in the management of the Moko Hills vineyard, allowing him to follow the fruit from the growing season through to the finished wine.

This is thoughtful, intelligent winemaking with a genuine connection to the land.

Bendigo – One of Central Otago's Greatest Pinot Noir Subregions

Central Otago has established itself as one of the world's most exciting regions for Pinot Noir.

Situated in New Zealand's South Island, it is celebrated for its dramatic landscapes, continental climate and extraordinary ability to produce Pinot Noir of remarkable intensity and purity.

But Central Otago is far from uniform.

The differences between Bannockburn, Gibbston, Alexandra, Pisa and Bendigo can be considerable.

Bendigo is particularly fascinating.

Situated on the eastern side of Lake Dunstan, its vineyards occupy a landscape of rocky slopes, schist outcrops and varied elevations.

The region can produce Pinot Noirs with impressive concentration, dark-fruit intensity and beautifully structured tannins.

Yet the finest examples also possess remarkable fragrance, freshness and savoury complexity.

The Moko Hills vineyard benefits from a north-facing slope, providing valuable sunlight in this relatively cool growing environment.

The combination of exposure, rocky soils and Central Otago's distinctive climate creates the opportunity for wines with both ripeness and precision.

Bendigo Pinot Noir can be wonderfully powerful, but the greatest examples balance that concentration with elegance, mineral tension and extraordinary aromatic detail.

The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir is a magnificent demonstration of that balance.

The 2023 Vintage – Concentration, Structure & Beautiful Freshness

The 2023 growing season in Central Otago was particularly interesting.

It represented the continuation of a three-year La Niña weather cycle, with warm, dry conditions and relatively little wind.

Low soil moisture levels contributed to the development of small berries in compact bunches.

These conditions can produce fruit with impressive flavour concentration and tannin structure.

However, the season became cooler after véraison, allowing the grapes to complete ripening gradually.

This provided an important balance between fruit concentration and freshness.

For Pinot Noir, that combination can be particularly exciting.

The variety needs sufficient ripeness to develop its complex fruit and savoury characters, but excessive warmth can diminish the delicacy and acidity that make the finest wines so compelling.

At Moko Hills, the 2023 vintage delivered fruit with both intensity and structure.

The grapes were hand-harvested on 6 and 12 April 2023, before undergoing carefully considered fermentation and maturation.

The result is a Pinot Noir with remarkable concentration, beautifully defined tannins and the vibrant acidity that makes great Central Otago Pinot Noir so captivating.

Four Pinot Noir Clones – A Fascinating Combination

The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir was produced from four different Pinot Noir clones:

777, 115, Abel and UCD5.

Each selection can contribute different characteristics to the finished wine.

Clone 777 is often associated with dark-fruit concentration, depth and structure.

Clone 115 can contribute aromatic intensity, colour and beautifully defined fruit.

The Abel clone is particularly fascinating, with a celebrated history in New Zealand Pinot Noir and a reputation for producing wines of remarkable complexity.

UCD5 provides another dimension, contributing to the overall balance and personality of the blend.

The combination of these clones allows Donald van der Westhuizen to explore different expressions of Pinot Noir within the Moko Hills vineyard.

Rather than relying on a single selection, the finished wine brings together complementary characteristics.

The result is greater complexity, aromatic detail and textural interest.

For serious Pinot Noir enthusiasts, the combination of these four clones is another compelling aspect of this remarkable wine.

Dark Cherry, Wild Berries, Rose Petals & Extraordinary Savoury Complexity

The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir is a wonderfully complex and beautifully structured wine.

The aromatics are captivating.

Black cherry, raspberry, dark plum and wild berries combine with rose petals, lavender, dried thyme and delicate spice.

There are fascinating savoury undertones.

Hints of cocoa, pink pepper, liquorice, dried herbs, forest floor and earthy mineral complexity contribute additional depth.

The fruit is ripe and beautifully expressive, yet the wine never feels excessive.

On the palate, there is impressive concentration.

Dark cherry and red-berry flavours provide the foundation, supported by silky yet beautifully defined tannins.

The acidity is vibrant and energetic, giving the wine a wonderful sense of tension.

There is a fascinating interplay between the richness of the fruit and the wine's savoury, mineral character.

The finish is long, complex and beautifully persistent.

This is not simply a generous, fruit-driven Central Otago Pinot Noir.

It possesses the structure, elegance and complexity to reward serious attention.

Beautifully fragrant, wonderfully textured and full of savoury complexity – this is Pinot Noir of exceptional individuality.

Extraordinary Winemaking – Whole Bunch, Wild Fermentation & Old French Oak

The winemaking behind the 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir is particularly fascinating.

Rather than treating all the fruit identically, Donald van der Westhuizen divided the harvest into three separate fermentation parcels.

One parcel contained 100% whole bunches.

A second contained 70% whole bunches.

The third was entirely destemmed.

This approach allowed Donald to explore different dimensions of Pinot Noir.

Whole-bunch fermentation can contribute aromatic lift, savoury spice and additional tannin complexity, while destemmed fruit can emphasise purity and generosity.

All three parcels underwent natural fermentation with wild yeasts.

The fruit spent between 23 and 28 days on skins, with gentle handling designed to avoid excessive extraction.

Following fermentation, the wine was transferred to 100% seasoned French oak barrels, where it matured for 12 months.

Malolactic fermentation occurred naturally during spring.

The finest barrels were then selected for the final blend.

The wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered on 14 April 2024.

At 13.5% alcohol, it combines impressive concentration with the freshness and elegance that define great Pinot Noir.

This is beautifully considered winemaking, designed to capture the extraordinary personality of the Moko Hills vineyard.

A Pinot Noir for Serious Burgundy Enthusiasts

For lovers of great red Burgundy, the finest Central Otago Pinot Noirs can be particularly compelling.

Although the growing environments are very different, both regions are capable of producing wines with extraordinary aromatic complexity, beautiful tannin structure and a strong sense of place.

The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir possesses many of the qualities that make fine Burgundy so captivating.

Fragrant red and dark fruits.

Delicate floral perfume.

Savoury spice and earthy complexity.

Fine, beautifully structured tannins.

And a persistent mineral character that provides additional depth.

The use of multiple Pinot Noir clones, whole-bunch fermentation and seasoned French oak further reinforces the wine's emphasis on elegance and complexity.

But this is not an imitation of Burgundy.

It is an expression of the rugged, dramatic landscape of Bendigo in Central Otago.

For anyone who appreciates serious red Burgundy, beautifully structured Tasmanian Pinot Noir or the finest wines of Central Otago, this is a fascinating discovery.

Excellent Cellaring Potential

The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir possesses the concentration, acidity and tannin structure required for rewarding bottle development.

Decanter suggests a drinking window of 2025–2032, while Cameron Douglas MS indicates that the wine should continue to develop through 2033 and beyond.

With time, the youthful cherry, raspberry and floral characters may evolve towards dried rose petals, forest floor, truffle, leather and more complex savoury spice.

The wine's fine tannins and vibrant acidity provide an excellent foundation for this development.

However, there is no need to wait.

With a little time in the glass or a gentle decant, the wine's beautiful fragrance and fruit expression should provide considerable pleasure in its youth.

This is a Pinot Noir worth enjoying now and following over the next decade.

A Beautiful Label with a Meaningful Connection to the Land

One of the most distinctive aspects of Moko Hills is the artwork used on its labels.

Each wine features an illustration celebrating the native flora and fauna of the surrounding landscape.

The Pinot Noir label features the Kawarau Gecko, a small native lizard associated with the rocky schist outcrops of the region.

The artwork also incorporates Korokia, a native shrub found throughout the landscape.

These illustrations are more than simply attractive packaging.

They reflect the estate's commitment to understanding and protecting the environment in which the vines grow.

The artwork was created by Rachel Walker.

It is a wonderful expression of the philosophy behind Moko Hills.

A wine that celebrates not only the vineyard, but the extraordinary natural landscape that makes it possible.

A Magnificent Food Wine

The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir would be outstanding alongside roast duck, particularly with a cherry or plum-based sauce.

Its combination of dark fruit, savoury spice and beautifully structured tannins makes it equally appealing with venison, grilled quail, roast lamb and mushroom-based dishes.

The wine's earthy complexity would be particularly attractive alongside wild mushrooms, truffle-infused pasta or slow-roasted vegetables.

It would also be a wonderful partner for charcuterie and aged cheeses.

For serious Pinot Noir enthusiasts, this is a wine that deserves a generous glass and the opportunity to reveal its complexity over time.

Why We Love This Wine at Liquid Vibe

At Liquid Vibe, we are constantly searching for wines that combine extraordinary quality, genuine individuality and compelling value.

And the 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir ticks every box.

First, there is the vineyard.

A remarkable site on the rugged slopes of Bendigo, one of Central Otago's most exciting Pinot Noir subregions.

Then there is the winemaker.

Donald van der Westhuizen brings an extraordinary ecological perspective to viticulture and winemaking, producing wines that genuinely reflect their environment.

Then there is the production.

Only 1,600 bottles.

That is an incredibly small amount of wine.

And finally, there are the reviews.

95 Points – Wine Pilot.

95 Points – Candice Chow.

94 Points – The Wine Front.

94 Points – The Wine Advocate.

94 Points – Decanter.

94 Points – Cameron Douglas MS.

Six outstanding critical ratings.

For a producer of this scale, that is an extraordinary achievement.

And at $65 a bottle, the value is remarkable.

There are plenty of Central Otago Pinot Noirs selling for $80, $100 and considerably more that would struggle to match this combination of vineyard individuality, complexity and critical recognition.

Just 1,600 bottles. Six outstanding reviews. Four Pinot Noir clones. Wild fermentation. Beautifully integrated old French oak. Just $65.

The 2023 Moko Hills Pinot Noir is one of the most exciting boutique Central Otago discoveries we have come across – and exactly the kind of wine we love introducing to our customers at Liquid Vibe.

Wine Details

• Producer: Moko Hills

• Winemaker: Donald van der Westhuizen

• Wine: Pinot Noir

• Vintage: 2023

• Region: Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand

• Variety: 100% Pinot Noir

• Clones: 777, 115, Abel and UCD5

• Vineyard: Moko Hills Estate Vineyard

• Harvest: Hand-picked on 6 and 12 April 2023

• Fermentation: Wild yeast

• Whole Bunch: Three parcels – 100%, 70% and 0%

• Skin Contact: 23–28 days

• Oak Maturation: 12 months in seasoned French oak

• Malolactic Fermentation: Natural

• Fining & Filtration: Unfined and unfiltered

• Bottled: 14 April 2024

• Alcohol: 13.5%

• Closure: Screwcap

• Production: Approximately 1,600 bottles

• Critic Ratings: 95 Wine Pilot | 95 Candice Chow | 94 The Wine Front | 94 The Wine Advocate | 94 Decanter | 94 Cameron Douglas MS

• Drinking Window: Approximately 2025–2033+

• Style: Fragrant, structured, savoury and mineral-driven Central Otago Pinot Noir

• RRP: $65 per bottle

• Food Pairing: Roast duck, venison, wild mushrooms, grilled quail, roast lamb and truffle dishes

• Serving Temperature: Approximately 14–16°C