Dehours & Fils Lieu dit "Brisefer" Perpetual Reserve – 95 Points James Suckling

95 POINTS JAMES SUCKLING! EXTRAORDINARY SINGLE-VINEYARD BLANC DE BLANCS FROM OLD-VINE CHARDONNAY – JUST $258!

95 Points – JamesSuckling.com

Dehours & Fils Lieu-Dit 'Brisefer' Réserve Perpétuelle Extra Brut – Vallée de la Marne, Champagne, France

RRP $258 per bottle

Now this is the sort of Champagne that reminds us why the world's greatest independent growers are producing some of the most exciting wines in France.

Forget the idea that all great Blanc de Blancs must come from the famous chalk vineyards of the Côte des Blancs.

Jérôme Dehours has created something extraordinary from an old-vine Chardonnay vineyard in the Vallée de la Marne.

A single vineyard.

Old vines, including plantings dating back to 1947.

Distinctive red-clay soils.

Traditional oak fermentation.

And an extraordinary perpetual reserve established in 2013.

100% CHARDONNAY. SINGLE VINEYARD. OLD VINES. PERPETUAL RESERVE. EXTRA BRUT.

The result is a magnificent Champagne of richness, texture, depth and extraordinary complexity.

Think ripe peach.

Apricot.

Toasted almonds.

Vanilla.

Candied citrus.

And beautiful savoury complexity.

All supported by a fine mousse, vibrant acidity and a long, beautifully structured finish.

95 POINTS JAMES SUCKLING!

JUST $258 PER BOTTLE!

This is a serious Champagne for people who appreciate the extraordinary individuality of great vineyards.

Dehours & Fils – One of Champagne's Most Fascinating Independent Growers

Jérôme Dehours is one of the most interesting winemakers in the Vallée de la Marne.

Since taking over the family estate in 1996, he has developed a remarkable reputation for producing Champagnes that express the individual character of their vineyards.

His approach is very different from that of the large Champagne houses.

Rather than blending away the differences between vineyards to create a uniform house style, Jérôme celebrates them.

The soil.

The exposure.

The age of the vines.

And the unique personality of each parcel.

The estate is based in Cerseuil, near Mareuil-le-Port, with vineyards spread across the surrounding Marne Valley villages.

Although Dehours is particularly celebrated for its Pinot Meunier, the estate's single-vineyard Chardonnay Champagnes are equally fascinating.

And Brisefer is one of its most extraordinary expressions.

A Champagne that demonstrates just how remarkable old-vine Chardonnay can be when grown on a truly distinctive site.

Brisefer – An Extraordinary Single Vineyard in Mareuil-le-Port

Brisefer is a historic Chardonnay vineyard situated in Mareuil-le-Port in the Vallée de la Marne.

And what makes it so fascinating is its terroir.

Unlike the famous chalk-dominated vineyards of the Côte des Blancs, Brisefer is characterised by distinctive red-clay soils.

The vineyard sits at the bottom of a gentle, east-facing slope.

Over time, much of the limestone has been leached from the upper soil layers.

The resulting terroir produces Chardonnay with a particularly distinctive personality.

Richness.

Texture.

Depth.

And beautiful savoury complexity.

But also remarkable freshness and structure.

This is Chardonnay that combines the generosity of clay-rich soils with the precision and elegance of great Champagne.

Old Vines Dating Back to 1947

One of the most extraordinary aspects of Brisefer is the age of its vines.

The vineyard contains historic Chardonnay plantings dating back to 1947, alongside later plantings.

These old vines are particularly important to the character of the wine.

Their established root systems explore the vineyard's soils.

They can contribute concentration, depth and remarkable complexity.

And their fruit forms the foundation of this exceptional single-vineyard Champagne.

The Dehours family has recognised the importance of Brisefer for generations.

Jérôme's grandfather regarded it as one of the estate's finest vineyards and used its fruit for his most prestigious wines.

This is not simply another vineyard in Champagne. It is one of the historic jewels of the Dehours estate.

The Extraordinary Secret – A Perpetual Reserve Started in 2013

Now this is where Brisefer becomes particularly fascinating.

THE PERPETUAL RESERVE WAS ESTABLISHED IN 2013!

Rather than producing a conventional vintage Champagne, Jérôme Dehours maintains a continuously evolving reserve of wine from this individual vineyard.

Each year, a proportion of the reserve is drawn off for bottling.

Fresh wine from the latest harvest is then added.

Over time, this creates extraordinary complexity.

Younger wines contribute freshness, energy and vibrant fruit.

Older wines bring depth, savoury character and additional texture.

And because every component comes from Brisefer, the Champagne retains the unmistakable personality of its vineyard.

The estate's technical information describes a typical annual renewal proportion of approximately 35%.

This is a remarkable approach to expressing terroir.

Rather than focusing on the character of a single growing season, Jérôme seeks to capture the enduring personality of the vineyard across multiple vintages.

And the results are absolutely fascinating.

Traditional Oak Fermentation – Extraordinary Texture and Complexity

The winemaking approach is just as interesting as the vineyard itself.

The Chardonnay is fermented in oak barrels.

The wines are matured on their lees, allowing additional complexity and texture to develop.

The estate has used a combination of 200-litre, 300-litre and 500-litre barrels, as well as larger oak vessels.

Natural settling is employed.

And the wine is produced without fining or filtration.

This is thoughtful, traditional winemaking designed to preserve the character of the vineyard.

The oak contributes beautiful integration.

The lees provide texture.

And the Chardonnay retains its remarkable purity.

The result is a Champagne with the depth and complexity of a serious white Burgundy, combined with the elegance and energy of fine Champagne.

Extra Brut – Beautifully Dry and Wonderfully Precise

Brisefer is finished in an Extra Brut style.

The exact dosage varies between disgorgements, with the estate publishing a range of approximately 0–5 grams per litre.

This restrained approach allows the wine's natural richness and texture to shine.

There is no need for excessive sweetness.

The old-vine Chardonnay provides concentration.

The red-clay terroir contributes depth.

The perpetual reserve adds complexity.

And the natural acidity delivers freshness and balance.

This is a Champagne that is beautifully dry, wonderfully textured and remarkably sophisticated.

Peach, Apricot, Toasted Almond and Extraordinary Savoury Complexity

The aromatic profile of Brisefer is magnificent.

Think ripe peach.

Fresh apricot.

Baked apple.

Pear.

Candied lemon.

And delicate citrus blossom.

Then come the more complex notes.

Toasted almonds.

Vanilla.

Walnuts.

Brioche.

And subtle blond tobacco.

The palate is rich and beautifully textured.

There is impressive fruit concentration.

A fine, elegant mousse.

And wonderful depth through the mid-palate.

But what makes the wine so compelling is its balance.

The richness is supported by vibrant acidity.

The savoury complexity is beautifully integrated.

And the finish is long, structured and remarkably persistent.

This is Blanc de Blancs with extraordinary personality.

95 Points – James Suckling

95 POINTS – JAMESSUCKLING.COM

James Suckling awarded Dehours Brisefer an outstanding 95 points in August 2026.

The review highlights the wine's beautiful combination of ripe stone fruit, toasted almonds and delicate vanilla.

The palate is described as rich and silky, with fine bubbles and impressive structure.

The finish reveals additional complexity, including candied citrus, walnuts and savoury tobacco notes.

The reviewed bottle was disgorged in November 2025.

An extraordinary endorsement of one of Jérôme Dehours's most fascinating Champagnes.

Another 95 Points – Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

95 POINTS – ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE

An earlier disgorgement of Brisefer also received an outstanding 95 points from Wine Advocate critic Kristaps Karklins.

His review celebrates the remarkable energy, depth and structure of this single-vineyard Chardonnay.

The wine's distinctive red-clay terroir contributes richness, while its vibrant acidity provides extraordinary freshness.

Another magnificent endorsement of the quality and consistency of this remarkable Champagne.

Why Brisefer Is So Different from Other Blanc de Blancs

One of the most fascinating aspects of Brisefer is how different it can be from Chardonnay grown in Champagne's famous chalk vineyards.

The Côte des Blancs is renowned for producing Champagnes of extraordinary mineral precision and tension.

Brisefer offers a different expression.

The red-clay soils contribute richness and depth.

The old vines provide concentration.

Oak fermentation adds texture and complexity.

And the perpetual reserve creates additional savoury character.

The result is a Blanc de Blancs that combines the richness of a serious white wine with the finesse and freshness of exceptional Champagne.

For anyone who loves fine white Burgundy, this is a particularly exciting style to explore.

Extraordinary with Fine Dining

Brisefer is a magnificent Champagne for the dinner table.

Its richness, structure and savoury complexity make it particularly versatile.

Lobster

The wine's generous texture and natural acidity are magnificent with lobster and a delicate butter sauce.

Scallops

Beautiful with pan-seared scallops, especially with browned butter.

Turbot and John Dory

An outstanding partner for delicate white fish prepared with rich sauces.

Roast Chicken

The wine's savoury complexity works beautifully with roast poultry.

Mushroom Dishes

A magnificent match for mushroom risotto or delicate truffle preparations.

Aged Comté

The toasted-almond and savoury characters complement the nutty complexity of aged cheese.

For something particularly memorable, serve Brisefer with lobster, browned butter and fresh herbs.

This is Champagne that deserves to be treated as one of the world's great fine wines.

Why We Love This Champagne at Liquid Vibe

At Liquid Vibe, we have an enormous appreciation for the world's finest independent Champagne growers.

And Dehours Brisefer is exactly the sort of wine that excites us.

First, there is the producer.

Jérôme Dehours – one of the Vallée de la Marne's most fascinating winemakers.

Then there is the vineyard.

Brisefer – a remarkable single site in Mareuil-le-Port.

Then there are the vines.

Old-vine Chardonnay, with historic plantings dating back to 1947.

Then there is the terroir.

Distinctive red-clay soils that produce extraordinary richness and texture.

Then there is the winemaking.

Traditional oak fermentation and extended lees maturation.

Then there is the extraordinary reserve.

A PERPETUAL RESERVE ESTABLISHED IN 2013!

And finally, there is the critical recognition.

95 POINTS JAMES SUCKLING!

At $258 per bottle, this is undoubtedly a serious Champagne.

But it is also a remarkable expression of a single vineyard, made by one of Champagne's most thoughtful independent growers.

For anyone who loves extraordinary Blanc de Blancs, fine white Burgundy or Champagnes that reveal the unique personality of their vineyards, Dehours Brisefer is an absolute must-try.

OLD-VINE CHARDONNAY. SINGLE-VINEYARD TERROIR. PERPETUAL RESERVE SINCE 2013. 95 POINTS JAMES SUCKLING.

Dehours & Fils Brisefer – an extraordinary Champagne we are delighted to recommend at Liquid Vibe.

Wine Details

• Producer: Champagne Dehours & Fils

• Wine: Lieu-Dit Brisefer Réserve Perpétuelle Extra Brut

• Vintage: Non-Vintage / Perpetual Reserve

• Region: Vallée de la Marne, Champagne, France

• Village: Mareuil-le-Port

• Winemaker: Jérôme Dehours

• Grape Variety: 100% Chardonnay

• Style: Single-Vineyard Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

• Vineyard: Brisefer

• Historic Vine Plantings: Dating back to 1947

• Soils: Red clay, with limestone leached from the surface

• Exposure: East-facing, gentle lower slope

• Fermentation: Oak barrels

• Maturation: Oak vessels and lees ageing

• Reserve: Perpetual reserve established in 2013

• Typical Reserve Renewal: Approximately 35% annually

• Clarification: Natural settling, without fining or filtration

• Dosage: Release dependent, approximately 0–5 g/L

• Alcohol: Approximately 12.5%

• Critic Score: 95 Points JamesSuckling.com

• Additional Recognition: 95 Points Wine Advocate for an earlier disgorgement

• RRP: $258 per bottle

• Food Pairing: Lobster, scallops, turbot, roast chicken, mushrooms and aged Comté

• Serving Temperature: Approximately 10–12°C

• Glassware: Large white wine glass